Oregon’s Clam Chowder
Oregon’s clams specifically the use of gaper clams or razor clams distinguishes Oregon’s Clam Chowder from other well known styles of clam chowders. Oregon’s Clam Chowder is based on the uniquely delicate flavor of gaper clams or razor clams. The blend of the quahog or cherry stone clams plus the other ingredients of the traditional New England or Manhattan clam chowders cannot compare to the delicate flavor of the gaper clams or razor clams that make our clam chowder uniquely Oregon’s Clam Chowder. I hope your family and friends enjoy Oregon’s Clam Chowder as much as my family and friends have. Bill
Each spring my wife and I debate how to cook the first limits of razor clams we have dug. She loves crème based Oregon’s Clam Chowder as much as I love fried razor clams. I prepare the clam chowder using two limits of razor clams but it works just as well with one limit or a limit of bay clams (gaper, Martha Washington, cockles or softshell clams. I prefer the delicate flavor of gaper clams for my clam chowder.
Once the clams are cleaned and washed store the clams in sealed plastic bags or in covered bowls for immediate use or vacuum pack the clams and freeze them for future use. Reserve any clam juice that weeps into the plastic bags or in the covered bowl until needed. Prepare the clams for cooking by cutting the clam necks into small ¾ inch bite sized pieces and refrigerate until needed. The essence of the flavor that makes Oregon’s Clam Chowder unique is contained in the clam bodies and digger feet. Puree the clam bodies and digger feet and refrigerate until needed.
Peel and dice a large white onion into medium pieces and set aside in a large skillet until needed. Peel the skin from 2 large cloves of garlic. Crush the garlic into the large skillet using a garlic press. Sauté the onions and garlic in the large skillet with three heaping tablespoons of bacon fat or the fat rendered from finely chopped chunks of salt pork or from ½ stick of butter until the onions are nearly cooked though. I prefer bacon fat because it is readily available in our home. Remove the onions and garlic from the skillet and set aside until they are needed while retaining as much of the bacon fat in the skillet as possible. Peel 8 medium or 6 large white rose potatoes. White Rose potatoes are more flavorful than other potatoes. Quarter the potatoes and cut into medium bite size pieces. Put the potatoes into a 16 qt. stock pot and add the entire contents from a 46 oz can of no clams added clam juice with ½ teaspoon of salt. The large cans of clam juice can be purchased at wholesale grocery chain stores. Par-boil the potatoes until they are nearly cooked through. Pour the potatoes and the clam juice into a colander reserving the clam juice in a bowl until needed. Return the potatoes to the stock pot and add the onions. The potatoes and onion were cut into medium pieces because each batch of razor clam chowder lasts several days and every time the chowder is heated the potatoes and onions cook down into the chowder.
Using the large skillet containing the bacon fat make a roux by melting 1½ quarter pound sticks of salted butter combined with 1½ cups of flour. Heat the butter and bacon fat over a medium heat and stir in the flour until the mixture thickens forming a paste. Add more flour or butter if needed. Increase to high heat while slowing adding a quart of Half & Half thinning the roux. Stir constantly until the roux thickens; then gradually add the clam juice to the roux until the entire mixture thickens and begins to boil.
Combine the roux with the onions and potatoes in the stock pot. Stir constantly with a wire whisk or large spoon to prevent the chowder from burning until the mixture of roux, potatoes and onions returns to a boil. Add the chopped clams and the pureed clam feet and bodies to the stock pot then remove the pot from the burner. Fold the chopped and pureed clams in the chowder mix with a large spoon. Allow the clam chowder to stand for 15 minutes before serving. My wife and I salt and pepper to taste. She prefers back pepper and I prefer white. I prefer croutons in my chowder and she prefers Oyster crackers.
The unique flavor of gaper clams or razor clams is ideally suited for the complex flavors of tomato based Oregon’s Clam Chowder. Do not overpower the delicate flavor of the clam by using more tomatoes than the recipe calls for.
Once the clams are cleaned and washed store the clams in sealed plastic bags or in covered bowls for immediate use or vacuum pack the clams and freeze them for future use. Reserve any clam juice that weeps into the plastic bags or in the covered bowl until needed. Prepare the clams for cooking by cutting the clam necks into small ¾ inch bite sized pieces and refrigerate until needed. The essence of the flavor that makes Oregon’s Clam Chowder unique is contained in the clam bodies and digger feet. Puree the clam bodies and digger feet and refrigerate until needed.
Peel and dice a large white onion into medium pieces and set aside in a large skillet. Peel the skin from 2 large cloves of garlic. Crush the garlic into the large skillet using a garlic press. Sauté the onions and garlic in the large skillet with three heaping tablespoons of bacon fat or the fat rendered from finely chopped chunks of salt pork or from ½ stick of butter until the onions are nearly cooked though. I prefer bacon fat because it is readily available in our home. Peel 8 medium or 6 large white rose potatoes. White Rose potatoes are more flavorful than other potatoes. Quarter the potatoes and cut into medium bite size pieces and set aside in the stock pot. Peel and chop 1 medium sized turnip into bite sized pieces and combine with the potatoes in the stock pot. Add the entire contents from a 46 oz can of no clams added clam juice with the clam juice from the clams that was set aside earlier to the stock pot. Open the drain the juice from a 28 ounce can of whole tomatoes into the stock pot. Crush the tomatoes with your hands and add them to the stock pot. Add 2 bay leaves. Add 1 teaspoon of dried thyme. Add 1 ½ teaspoons of dried oregano. Grind and add the meat from ½ nutmeg. Par-boil the potatoes until they are nearly cooked through. While the potatoes are cooking wash and cut 6 stocks of celery into medium bite sized pieces and set aside. Wash and cut 3 small round sized carrots into small bite sized pieces and set aside. Sauté the carrots and celery in the large skillet with the remaining bacon fat until tender. Add the onions, carrots and celery to the stock pot and cook until firm but tender. Add the pureed clam meat and the bite sized pieces of the clam’s neck. Remove the stock pot from the burner and set aside for 15 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste before garnishing with fresh chopped Italian flat leafed parsley. Serve with crusty French or Italian baguettes and a bottle of fine white wine. (C) MF Beal and Bill Lackner Enjoy, Bill
Very interesting recipe. Here in New England we never put tomatoes into a clam chowder and look down upon the Manhattan. That’s a long standing rift between New York and New England. There is also the Rhode Island version with clear broth and I assume that your’s is clear broth because unless I missed it I don’t see the addition of milk or cream.
I use a recipe combined from Yankee Magazine, Julia Child and Howard Mitcham (deceased), an old time cook down on Cape Cod. I don’t know if it will fit here but I’ll try. I will cook your’s up this winter:
Clam Chowder
Serves: 6 to 8
4 oz of salt pork, diced small.
1 tbl of butter.
2 large onions, thinly sliced and chopped or cut into half rings.
1 Bay leaf.
Pinch of sage.
¾ cup {4 ea.} Pilot or Oyster Crackers, crumbled.
4 cups of liquid: half clam {steamer} broth, fish stock (bullion cube ok) or light chicken broth and half water. Any combination of these making up 4 cups is fine.
3 to 4 cups of peeled and sliced potatoes. Cut length wise and cut into ¼” slices.
Note: Use Yukon Gold, a thin skinned potato, not a baking potato which will fall apart after cooking.
1 quart of whole milk. You can add some half and half or cream if desired.
4 cups of shucked Pine Point Sea Clams, quahogs or soft shelled steamers. Chop up or grind if desired.
1 tbl of dry sherry {optional}
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to suit.
Julia Child blanches the salt pork first, and drains off most of the fat after it is browned in a little butter. Then she adds onions, a bay leaf, crumbled crackers, a liquid {clam – steaming juices and water, fish stock, or a light chicken stock}, sliced potatoes, and milk or cream. Seasoned to taste.
Note: Milk and/or cream must always be added last. Clam chowder needs a quart. Make sure you don’t boil the milk/cream.
Heat 1 quart of water to boiling; add the salt pork and simmer 5 minutes. Drain in a sieve and rinse under cold water. Press dry with paper towels. Combine salt pork and butter in a large, broad pan and sauté over low heat until the pork has rendered its fat and begins to brown. Stir in the onions and bay leaf. Cover and cook until the onions are tender and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Set a strainer over a bowl to drain off any excess fat. Return onions to a stock pot. Add the cracker crumbs and stir to blend.
Add the liquid of choice and the potatoes to the onions. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer loosely covered until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
Add the clams and cook for five minutes or so, just till the clams are cooked through. Add the milk and/or cream, cover and cook over low heat {don’t boil} for a few minutes bringing the chowder back up to temperature. Taste, add the sage and correct the seasonings – add sherry if desired. As with any chowder, it’s best if refrigerated at least 8 hours before serving. But first cool it with the cover off before refrigerating!
CHOWDER COMMANDMENTS BY HOWARD MITCHAM
TO PREVENT A CHOWDER FROM SOURING
-NEVER LEAVE THE COVER ON THE POT WHILE COOLING THE CHOWDER-
-NEVER PUT A CHOWDER IN THE REFRIG UNTIL IT HAS COMPLETELY COOLED TO ROOM TEMPERATURE-
-IF IT’S COOLING ON A FLAT TABLE OR SHELF, PROP UP THE POT WITH A SPOON SO THAT AIR CAN CIRCULATE UNDER IT-
-IF A SKIN FORMS ON THE TOP OF THE CHOWDER, SKIM IT OFF CAREFULLY-
-CHOWDER ALWAYS TASTES BEST ON THE SECOND OR THIRD DAY-
Yankee magazine, Jan/Feb 2001. {Adapted from The Way to Cook by Julia Child, Alfred A. Knopt, New York, 1989}
Dave, Thank you for sharing Julia Child and Howard Mitcham’s recipe. My wife and I loved watching Julia’s cooking show. We are a fan of both New England and Manhattan style clam chowder. Our recipes stress the physiological attributes that are unique to Oregon’s razor and gaper clams and take advantage of enormous amount of flavor released by pureeing the clam bodies and feet. My friend Mary Beal shared her recipe for Manhattan styled clam chowder in which she adds potatoes and a turnip. Personally I enjoy Manhattan or Rhode Island style clam chowder with or without the potatoes and the turnip, but using Oregon’s razor clams or gaper clams adds a component to clam chowder that is uniquely Oregon’s. As Always good digging, Bill
That is cruel to tempt us so much! I’m an Oregonian who is presently living in the midwest due to the necessity of earning a living, and we don’t have such clams here! All we have are some leathery fresh water clams.
I do stuff myself on them whenever we visit Oregon however.